Canon Service Manual for EOS Kiss Digital X, EOS Digital Rebel XTi, EOS 400D Digital

Here is the Service Manual for the Canon 400D, also known by the names;

  • EOS Kiss Digital X
  • EOS Digital Rebel XTi
  • EOS 400D Digital

canon-service-manual-eos-kiss-digital-x-eos-digital-rebel-xti-eos-400d-digital.pdf (20mb)

Other manuals are available here.

Canon EFS 17-85mm IS stuck/locked zoom repair/disassembly

It seems like this is a common problem with these lenses, the zoom gets stuck at 17mm with about 2mm of play (zoom movement). This problem is all due to a loose single screw on the inner lens assembly, sounds simple to fix, doesn’t it?

The challenge is trying to get to this single screw, which involves the separation of the lens into over 10 components, and the removal of about 20 small screws. Hopefully this guide will make the disassembly job a whole lot easier.

First, a reminder of what the lens looks like.

The stuck zoom lens

Turn the lens on its side with the connection contacts closest to you. There are 2 tiny Philips screws to remove.

Remove 2 screws holding the connection contacts

Balance the lens on its front with the metal lens screw lock ring visible. There are 4 small Philips screws to remove.

Metal lens screw lock

The metal ring can now be hinged apart. This next step is the most difficult. The inner black plastic ring is connected to the metal outer ring with 4 plastic clips in the inside. By pushing the clips towards the center, the black plastic ring can be removed from the top of the metal outer ring. Much care is needed due to the ribbon cable still being attached to the connection contacts allowing for a gap of roughly no more than 1cm.

Inner black ring and outer metal ring, clips visible

Once the inner black plastic ring is removed, the outer metal screw lock ring can be removed, exposing the PCB protected by a black plastic housing.

Both black and metal ring removed and PCB visible

Disconnect a single pressure ribbon cable attached to the inside of the black plastic housing which will then allow for its removal exposing the PCB.

Black plastic housing removed

Disconnect the 5 ribbon cables from the PCB. 2 are pressure connected, 2 with a hinged clip and 1 with a pressure clip. Unscrew a single Philips screw allowing the removal of the PCB.

Remove the 5 screws (circled in red) holding the outer black plastic ring allowing the remove of the black plastic ring. Then remove the 3 inner screws (circled in blue).

PCB removed

Turn the lens over and remove the rubber zoom grip. It can be removed by inserting a very thin screw driver under the rubber and working your way around.

Font of 17-85mm lens

Rubber zoom grip removed

With the rubber zoom grip removed, rotate the lens until you find a black rectangle sticker, peal this off to expose some contactors.

Black rectangle sticker removed exposing the contactors

With a Philip driver, unscrew the contactors. I actually performed this when reassembling the lens and slightly damaged them. It is better to remove them at the start to prevent this.

Contactors removed

There are 3 screws sitting on small metal tubes between a groove, finally remove these.

Screw in metal tubes within the groves

With these removed the inner lens portion can now be removed from the outer casing.

Outer casing removed from inner lens

You now have access to the problem screw(s) that need tightening. Once tightened, add some Loctite or nail-polish to stop the screws becoming loose again.

The final screws that need tightening

Some do’s and don’ts

  • don’t remove the front lens sticker or 3 screws behind it.
  • don’t remove the zoom sticker with m/ft increments.
  • don’t touch or disassemble any of the focusing ring!
  • do keep your UV filter on the lens, you can still remove the rubber grip with it on.
  • do make sure the focusing pin between the inner and outer len is in place.

References

How to repair High Heel Shoes for a few dollars

A very easy guide on repairing high heel shoes for a few dollars.

The damaged high heel shoe culprit, notice the lack of any heel and the exposed dangerous metal pin.

Damaged high heel, notice the metal pin protruding

Damaged high heel close up

The first task is to remove the old metal pin, depending on how worn the heel is depends on the ease of doing so. If there is a little rubber still visible or about 1mm of the pin showing it will be quite easy. I like to use a vice to squeeze the protruding head and then pull the shoe while rotating left and right, it should be easy enough with pliers, only a little more fiddling around.

If there is very little of the metal pin protruding and you are finding it very difficult to get a good grip on it, I sometimes cut about 1mm of the white plastic heel around the pin with a knife to expose more of the pin.

Remove the metal pin in a vice or with pliers

Once the pin is removed, give the heel a file to make everything nice and flat. Notice quite a bit of wear on the heel, depending on how fussy the owner is, you can remove any hanging leather and give the heel a nice coat of black paint. Personally, I don’t think it matters as it is quite hidden when worn.

Metal pin removed

After a double spray of flat black paint.

After a double coat of flat black spray paint

Now, I purchased 10 pairs of 10.5mm (7/16″) replacement heel tips for £7.50 (roughly $15 Australian, including shipping to Australia) on eBay. I have found that the majority of heels are around 10mm, there was one instance I had a stiletto of roughly 8mm and all that was required was some grinding/filing to obtain the required size. The shoes pictured are 10.5mm.

Replacement heel tips

In some cases the size of the pin hole may be too large for the regular 2.9mm (7/64″) pin, so some convertors to 3.1mm (or what they call Flexitubes) may be required. I purchased 8 pairs for £2.85 (roughly $5.7 Australian, including shipping to Australia) from Stiletto Heel Tips Online.

Flexitubes - converts 2.9mm pin to 3.1mm pin

To fix the new heel to the shoe, first make a very basic shoehorn. Notice the wood is at an angle, as the sole of the shoe as actually at an angle to the heel. A slightly thicker piece of wood would have been better.

Very basic shoehorn

Hammer the new heel all the way down till the plastic heel is touching the shoe’s heel. Make sure it is facing the right direction, the curved size facing back, and the flat side facing front.

Hammer the new heel tip into the shoe

The completely repaired high heel shoes for the cost of less than $2.50 Australian.

Completely repaired high heel shoes

Motorola RAZR V3 repair and housing change guide

This guide will step through the process required to repair a Motorola RAZR V3 “the phone”, including the flex cable and then replacing the housing.

The flex cable can be purchased from eBay for $7 US (including shipping), and the housing can be purchased from eBay for around $16 (including shipping). The flex cable is attached to the keypad circuit, which is automatically included in the purchase. When purchasing the housing, you need to make sure it is NOT a slip on case, skin, pouch, fascia, protector, etc, etc. The housing should include as a minimum the front, middle, back and battery cover. Keypad, hinge, pads, grommets, buttons may even be included, as well as TORX screwdrivers, make sure you buy all what you need. The included contents of my purchased housing were as follows.

The included contents housing contents purchased from eBay

To perform repairs on the phone, you require TORX T5 and T4 drivers, a small flat driver will come in handy as well, also at least 2 hours of spare time.

First a look at my broken phone, besides the obvious fact that it is broken into two separate halves, the hinge is broken and there is normal housing wear.

My broken Motorola RAZR V3

First remove the battery cover, battery and SIM card. Remove 2 TORX T5 screws under the battery cover circled in red. Separate the plastic case via two plastic clips as squared in red.

Remove battery case and battery and then TORX T5 screws

The antenna assembly can be removed by disconnection of the keyboard connector, squared in red. Remove the 4 TORX T4 screws, circled in red. These screws will be required for the new housing.

Disconnect the antenna assembly and remove the 4 TORX screws

Now, if you need to preserve the keypad circuit; it is a little bit more involved. First, lift up the tabs of the metal keypad as circled in red and then pry of the metal keypad. Most likely the keypad circuit will be stuck to the plastic so extreme care is required when removing. It may be easier to reuse this whole part, as it seems all colour housing still have this same silver part.

Lift the metal tabs, as circled to remove the keypad

Following is a photo of the new keypad circuit and the plastic keyboard housing.

The new keypad circuit and the plastic keyboard housing

Remove the backing of the keypad circuit and stick the circuit to the plastic housing. You will need to start from the bottom to allow the connectors to be threaded through the holes.

Stick the keyboard circuit to the plastic housing

A photo of the completed keypad assembly.

The completed keypad assembly

Remove the antenna from the antenna assembly by first removing two black grommets and then unclipping the two plastic clips.

The antenna assembly

Once the circuit board is removed, remove all the following from the plastic housing as these are required in the new housing.

Remove all the following

Insert all the old removed parts into the new housing as follows.

Insert all the old removed parts into the new housing

The change the screen housing, first remove the 4 rubber grommets as circled in red, and then the 4 TORX T5 screws behind.

Remove the 4 rubber grommets and then the 4 TORX T5 screws behind

Once the plastic screen housing is removed, the display circuit is visible. Carefully pry away the circuit from the plastic near all buttons and the backup battery as circled in red. The camera can be removed by lifting the brown tab as squared in red. Move the circuitry to the new housing and then connect the camera.

Carefully pry away the circuit from the plastic near all buttons and the backup battery

To connect the two clamshell halves, the hinge can be retracted in, the hinge is circled in red. This allows the two halves to combine; the hinge should then pop into place securing the two halves.

To connect the two clamshell halves, the hinge can be retracted in

Finally, replace all the finishing touches such as labels, hinge caps and grommets. Photos of the new phone are below.

Final image of the Motorola RAZR V3 with the new housing

Final image of the Motorola RAZR V3 with the new housing

The following repair guide may be of further help
Motorola V3-Razr Repair Manual KS-042050-V1.2.pdf