How to disassemble a Seagate FreeAgent Pro

I purchased a 750gb Seagate FreeAgent Pro (from America) with the sole intention of using just the drive as it was actually the same price as the standalone drive (in Australia). To remove the drive is quite a tricky procedure if you don’t have the knowhow.

Seagate FreeAgent Pro

I didn’t complete mangle my FreeAgent Pro, it is still usable (I think), but it isn’t pretty anymore.

There is already information out there but it seems this is an older model (which also looks like it was a lot easier to dismantle).

To start, remove the base. This is the easy part, just keep on removing screws till the base can be removed. You will have to remove the circuit board and also the SATA and SATA power cables from the board. Once the base is removed, you will have something that looks like this.

Seagate FreeAgent Pro with base removed

This is an already gutted FreeAgent Pro. Note the Seagate logo, this is the side that comes apart.

Now, onto the hard part. Also, as a note, I haven’t actually tried this method, but once I had it opened it was easier to assume how it should have been open (got to love hindsight). You will need a stiff, straight piece of wire, a wire coat hanger works perfectly, with the hook bent straight.

Seagate FreeAgent Pro location of main clips.

The locations of the two problematic clips are at the base. Once these are unclipped the ones at the top unclip very easily.

Seagate FreeAgent Pro positioning of wire.

Seagate FreeAgent Pro positioning of wire.

Insert the wire into the gaps at the bottom, the idea is to push the clip that secures the cover. When the wire is inserted and pushing on the clip, gently try to remove the cover. Do not apply too much force because as soon as the clip is deformed it will be impossible to remove (this is from experience). The cover should declip on one side nicely. Repeat this process for the clip on the other side.

Seagate FreeAgent Pro location of four clips.

It can be noted that the two clips, located at the bottom have been broken off, this was the extremely measures that I took to remove cover. Hopefully this post will prevent you from doing the same.

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  • Ase

    Hi Chris,

    Thanks for your detailed r,c,b,x,w descriptions but I really dont get it how to do this, anyone with more detailed pictures, film or so how to remove the “clips”?
    Tried to get a guide from Seagate, but with no sucess.
    Also tried to mail thydzik on his gmail twice but with no reply.

  • reber1b

    thydzik, have you seen or heard of any situation where the interface may be the cause of failure, or is it always the drive itself ? I had two 750gb FAP’s connected to Directv DVR’s, and they both failed in less than two years. Before this I had always considered Seagate/Maxtor to be very reliable. Both drives are 75% full of recorded programming, and if there is even a slight chance the drives are OK, I could remove them from their enclosures and put them in another eSATA enclosure. I know the chances of this are slim, but I thought I would at least ask.

    TIA, reber1b

  • http://thydzik.com thydzik

    reber1b,

    The interface (enclosure) failed on my Freeagent Pro so I would assume this to be your problem as well.
    The drives are standard drives, you would have a much better chance of recovery by removing it and connecting it to your motherboard.
    I believe SeaTools (Seagates HDD tools) can only be run this way.

    Travis

  • Deon

    The eSata connection point into the drive can cause real problems with the eSata cable – as standard, I had all sorts of problems with my 4 eSata FAP500s.
    >>> It is necessary to cut a small part off the top-front edge of the male connector so that it is not prevented from inserting completely and a good data/electrical connection can then be made.
    Since doing this I have not had any problem.
    Care must be taken with eSata cables.

    >>> I would not use these disks for direct recording, rather record to internal HD, then copy transfer to external – these externals are not rugged industrial storage units and must be treated so.

    I really like them, and have an assortment of 11 Freeagent externals totalling 6.25 TB collected since Oct ’07. They need looking after like a precious item. Not one of my disks has fallen over. I do not like to take them off-site, in a car I like to hold them in a bag so that they receive no jarring from speed-bumps etc.
    All still working, but it is true to say that I have started duplicating disks for safety with all the scare stories about.

    >>> Duplicating 500GB is a slow and laborious task especially thru USB connections of which I use 7. My technique is to do 20-30GB only per session, then disconnect and allow to cool – before resuming another session at some later time.
    Sometimes after a long copy session the source & destination Freeagent USB will not be disconnected when using the Green ‘Safely Remove Hardware’ icon at bottom right – in which case a Shutdown is required to switch them off. A tricky process that must be got right – listening/feeling for Freeagent disconnection/spin-down then removing USB lead gently, or Power Cable for eSata variety.

    I also use ‘HotSwap’ a similar free Disk Removal utility that also disconnects most types of drive (eSata etc.) Here is a link for an older version
    http://fileforum.betanews.com/detail/HotSwap/1201230987/1
    or here for newest available version:
    http://rapidshare.com/files/352645651/HotSwap__4.5.0.0.rar.html

    >>> My files (I have at least 500K) are videos, mp3s, ISO & RARs etc which I have collected into folders, each of only about 7.5GB in size. So as not to overburden the Freeagent when copying across 3-4 folders which is my quota per sitting. This needs administritive care like filing in an office.
    - I do not use any backup software.
    - I never boot-up with any external disk connected.
    - I use XP Pro SP2.

    >>> On receiving New Freeagent USB drives:-
    I make sure to turn off the power-saving mode in Seagate Manager and apply ‘Never’. I also switch off the yellow LED light.
    >>> The other very important switch is to make sure that write-caching is disabled in Control Panel>>System>>Device Manager>>Disk Drives>>Seagate Freeagent USB Device>>Policies (select ‘Optimize for quick removal’) – Apply OK, Restart.

    This essay may be a bit lengthy for here, but I can give free advice if requested.
    The Freeagent is not really suitable for a newbie PC user, which is why I believe there are so many complaints online. I have none with my 11, many are 2nd-hand from eBay.

    I will check back here.

  • Deon

    For people looking to cut eSata cables for eSata interface connectivity problems here is a link to a picture showing the before & after difference.

    http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/7500/esatacablecuts.jpg

    If these are not clear enough, I could post others – or provide technique details.

  • Deon

    If you also have a few external disks, with many files, you might find the free utility called ‘Disk Index’ quite useful.
    This utility will index all files contained on any disk, and store them in a labelled text file in the location of your choice. (I use a folder called Disk Indexes on C-drive)
    You can then use the Windows Search function to search for ‘word/phrase contained in a file’ – select the ‘Look-in/location’ as ‘Browse’ – select the folder where all your disk indexes are kept and Search.
    It certainly helps with my 11 externals.

    Here is the Disk Index website
    http://www.suncross.nl/

    or a download link for the latest Win-All version
    http://www.suncross.nl/downloads/DiskIndex.zip

  • reber1b

    thyzdik,

    Thanks for the answer, that is very encouraging to me. I guess I’ll go to work on my enclosure (s) using your technique.

    reber1b

  • reber1b

    Deon,

    Thanks for your info. If I find the drives themselves are OK, I’ll get a third party eSATA enclosure and connect it to the DVR that way. I’m restricted in what I can do since the drive has to be connected to the same DVR that was used to record the programming — thanks to High bandwidth Digital Copy Protection. I can connect the drive to a computer and, even though I can’t access any of the programming, I can at least tell if the drive is viable by checking for partitions.

    reber1b

  • Ase

    Hi thydzik & PhantomReality,

    You both write in your forum posts that if we would like more info and pictures we should email you.

    I have emailed you both, thydzik 3rd time, PhantomReality 1st time, but with no answer from you.

    Why do you ask us to email you for more info and pictures, when you dont bother to answer on those emails?

    //Ase

  • aklamo

    I just had to bust open a 750Gb FreeAgent Pro using these instructions.

    My FreeAgent Pro would stay connected to my MacBook Pro for only a short period of time (shorter if i was transferring large files) before it just disconnected itself. When I ran Disk Utility, the disk read clean, so I figured it was something to do with the external enclosure interface.

    It wasn’t a gentle affair, but I did get the HDD out of the FreeAgent case unscathed. I popped it into a Vantec external enclosure and my random disconnections stopped. I would even swear that my transfer speeds increased.

    Since I don’t really care about keeping the case, it didn’t bother me too much when i had to force it in a couple of spots. The two latches that you’re supposed to be able to push on using a coat hanger were bastards and i really had to pop them by wedging a flat head screwdriver in to the slit that i had opened up.

    Thanks and best of luck!

  • Damian

    Just had to open up FreeAgent Pro 1TB…
    Tried the push with coathanger technique… no go!!!
    Ended up ripping it open which didn’t really matter as was opening up to establish if casing had died or HD… lucky for us just the case…
    Yay for all the ancient jobs…

  • stamos

    i just saw this forum and i have the following question:
    (i have already taken the hard drive out of the case)
    what kind of cables will i need to connect the hard drive dirrectly to the motherboard?

  • http://thydzik.com thydzik

    stamos,
    You will need a stock-standard SATA cable.

  • joe daddi

    dis assemble went perfect!!!!! thnk you for the detailed instructions.. it was exactly what i was looking for.. got my HD out of its coffin an now time to bring it to life.. hope its still good =/ thnx again!!

  • dideuhoo

    My seagate freeagent does not turn on anymore. How can save the information on the discs to another external disc or USB device? Is this possible.

  • http://customrequest.com David

    My FreeAgent Pro stopped being recognized by my computer a few weeks ago. I tried pretty much everything out there. It just wouldn’t work. I even tried it on another computer it didn’t work.

    I ended up buying a hard drive and a third party enclosure which seems to be working well so far. Of course that didn’t solve the problem of having all of my private data on a broken hard drive.

    I decided if I couldn’t get it to work might as well see if I can get the hard drive out so that led me here. If it works great, if it doesn’t at least I tried.

    You forgot to mention at the beginning of your instructions that there are little rubber pieces on the bottom of the base. Basically with your fingers you grab them wiggle them a little bit to loosen them and then you pull them off. That exposes the screws on the bottom.

    For getting the case off to expose the hard drive cage I used a flat head screwdriver. I basically ran the screwdriver all the way around lifting as much as I could. I couldn’t get the bottom clips off which you mentioned would be hard so I just pulled on the top section hard enough to break the bottom clips.

    Once that’s done it exposes a hard drive cage, that’s as simple as unscrewing some screws and then bending the metal cage to get the hard drive right out.

    I’ll be buying another enclosure to see if the drive works now since I can’t find my cables to run the hard drive.

    dideuhoo you can either buy another enclosure or you can buy a USB to SATA cable (with a power supply).

  • Andy

    I have the same problem. Once the hard drive is out of the enclosure, what type of enclosure do you buy to hook it up to and where are some reputable places to buy them?

    I only have notebook computers, but may have a 10 yr old desktop if I need to hook the drive directly to a motherboard. It is probably IDE.

  • Gillo

    Hi, I’m interested in the model-number of the harddisk, seagate built into the enclosure.
    At seagate they told me that the hdd inside the freeagent pro does not have a firmware error (busy error) I have read about on different forums.
    But with my freeagent it sounds and looks quite similar (to the error).
    Before openening I want to check out if it is worth it (instead of sending the disk back to seagate, but then losing the data).
    If you could post the model number of the inner hdd, you could help me with that.
    Thank you in advance! Gillo

  • molk

    My 750gb just failed this morning , I dont want to spend a shit ton on data recovery , and wondering if i could just try putting the dive from my old case into my still working one ?

    Also are there any precautions I need to be aware of with the drive i.e. is safe to touch without being grounded and all that. ?

    CHEERS

    M

  • http://Www.drewloker.com Drew Loker

    Ok, it would have been easier to just buy a new drive…but I guess the thrill of DIY has to count for something. Not sure why I was determined to NOT break the clips, but I finally got the case cracked with out breaking the case. And I better understand what the challenge was. The pictures in this blog are pretty good considering. The key detail is a picture of an unbroken clip. With a better picture, it might help to not spend so long trying the wrong area.

    Indeed it is the side with the logo that opens up, but the clip is attached to that side and extends well to the other side. IOW, a part of the clip comes from the back side and extends all the way to the front cover (logo) and part of the clip from the front extends and clips behind the part coming from the back.

    There is little chance of a coat hanger working. You need a very skinny flat blade screw driver with a fairly long shaft. A cheap rat shack Jewlers screw driver was not long enough.

    And when you insert the screwdriver, I found it better to use the hole closest to the back side, not the middle hole.

    Now here is the catch. Only a very small portion of the clip from the front side extends past the clip portion from the back side. Use the flat part of the screwdriver turned side ways, perpendicular to the clip. With a really bright flashlight, you will see the channel of the backside clip…and just past the middle, closer to the backside of the case, you will just barely see the flat angled edge of the clip. So, from the front side, you will see the channel which does no good to push on. Then follow the channel toward the back…and you will see the clip edge. If you turn the screw driver parallel, the. It will slide off the clip. Turn it perpendicular to grab the edge of the clip to pushnon.

    Use the back side of a clothes pen, or something soft to pry open the case, and while pushing on e clip with the screwdriver, pry with the clothes pin.

    I will try to upload the photos to a site and put the link in another comment.

  • http://Www.drewloker.com Drew Loker

    Here is a link to a few photos of a clip intact…start at about picture 34.

    http://loker.smugmug.com/Professional/Misc-Picts/4108674_ZNYmN

  • molk

    If you beak the clips whats the worst that can happen , I mean is there a chance you will damage the drive ?

  • molk

    I dont understand it , this guy just looks like hes suing a reg screwdriver , and hes obvioulsy not broken the clips either given hes put it back together , am I missing something ??? :(

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIs3Pz15OFU&feature=related

  • Doug

    I dropped my Seagate once, from my home office desk, and it would not want to work again. It turns on, makes an effort to boot-up and then I hear a repeated noise as if something is stuck inside. My guess is the needle/arm assembly somehow dislodged or bent out of shape.
    I have torn/disassembled my drive off the case. I won’t go into details about the clips, since I am sure YOU probably won’t care much, just like me, about the exterior, but more urgently what is in the interior.

    I will try to hook it up to another computer and see if it gets recognized. Otherwise I will continue on my quest and try to open the actual HD.
    I will report back on my entire experience.

  • MikeyD

    The ends of the clips are wedge shaped and clip on to the other half by the springy action of the plastic “hooking” the triangular end inside a rectangular receptacle. Think of the barbed end of a fish hook caught on the edge of a flat surface. The idea is to get the coat hanger to push the clip away from the near side of the rectangular receptacle until it clears the edge and releases. It is hit or miss to say the least but it does work.

  • Lisa

    I tried to use the method described in this write up to open the enclosure. The pictures you provided and described gave me great insight into how it should properly be opened. However, after trying with the clothes hanger and finding no other thin, long, sturdy shaft I decided ‘fine, if you don’t want to come unhooked I will use physical violence!’

    I began by prying apart the top portion of the case and making my way around the entire case. The top portion came off easily. I set the enclosure on its bottom and began slowly prying apart the case using the top portion as my leverage. I heard a click, the case came apart, and I waited to hear the clips fall to the ground in defeat..however, guess what? The whole thing came off perfectly. The bottom clips were not damaged at all!

    So, if it helps.. maybe slowly prying from the top will enable the bottom clips to dislodge without breaking? I assume that is how others did it as well, maybe it was just luck.

  • Allister

    Thanks for the info. I didn’t quite manage the clips as described, but the diagrams and descriptions helped with some carefully directed violence. My drive is now free and unscathed. The case, and one finger, a little the worse for wear. Watch the sharp metal edges inside the base!

  • Dwight

    Molk,

    By now, you probably realize that , in the youtube link you provided, that was not the same type casing as the one in this article. Your link concerns an earlier version, which as explained in this article, was probably easier to disassemble.

  • Mo

    ive tried this tutorial and have not got the clips to open. i dont wanna damage anything inside so i havent been poking inside the enclosure too much. is there a way someone could upload a step by step tutorial seeing as there is not one that is very detailed. this tutorial it is a little hard to see where the clips are located.

  • BT

    the Free Agent Pro comes with a 5 year warranty. You should check warranty status on Seagate’s website before cracking open the case. They will replace the drive as long as the enclosure hasn’t been opened / damaged. good luck

  • Drake

    5 years warranty, check.
    But what about the data ?

    Got this ‘pro’ drive for a relative a few years back so he can back-up his stuff and today he was complaining that it was ‘flakey’ the last time he fired it up so I get to check it out.
    We fired it before lunch, it sounded terrible.
    You know, like a tray of marbles rotating….
    I didn’t think much of it because of the low hours and it seems OK.
    So we left it running and went to lunch.
    When we came back it was in sleep mode and refused to wake up so we reboot and after about 10 minutes of use the thing started showing blank directories then hangs (still spinning but no data) and after rebooting it was showing just a blank drive ! NOT GOOD.
    On this drive there are thousands of photos and work docs that my relative had back up from his old PC and notebook before junking them.
    Can’t just send it to Seagate for a swap can I ?
    A few reboots later it was still showing me blank drive so this isn’t going to happen with the built in controller if it will at all.

    Yeah, I figured out the screws under the rubber feet and got the base off in about 5 minutes then wrestled the top part off in no time BUT that two bottom tabs wern’t going anywhere fast.

    Google brought me to this site and I must have spent an hour trying to ‘push’ on those hooks every which way with not much luck.
    Like, I even have this flat blade screwdriver that’s just the right size for the job – .093″ diameter and 3″ long blade, fits the vent slot openings perfectly – an Xcelite R3322.

    So I gave up and tried to brute force it open (without mangling the aluminum cover that is) not much luck there either, they did use good plastic, the bums.
    BUT that got the case apart far enough for me to peek inside and look at the back of the hooks, sure enough, the bottom hooks got KEEPER TABs behind them and they are meant to keep the hooks from popping out.
    (you can see this tab on the fourth picture up top)
    So I tried pushing a little harder, even whack the screw driver with my palm a few times, still no luck.

    Finally I got fed up and decided try to break the keeper tabs, or the hooks, or the lid – if that’s what it takes.
    So I positioned the screwdriver right on top of one of the hook, as far away from the tip of the hook as I can, then gave the screw driver a reasonably healthy whack with a larg pair of pliers, figure this should be enough to break some plastic piece or another.
    Well, what do you know? That hook popped right off.
    So gave the other hook another whack and it came right off as well.
    The hooks are a little gouged by the screwdriver but the keeper tabs, are without a scratch. Nothing broke and the case still look pristine.
    Why didn’t I tried this an hour and a half ago ?

    Oh, yeah, the drive.
    I put it on my trusty USB-ATA dongle and the drive came up but hung during chkdsk so I parked it in front of the AC and crank the temp way down. No error after an hour. Data seems to be all there, so far.

    Oh, lookey here.
    Somebody’s got a Samsung 500g pocket drive on sale for $52
    Hey, for less than what I paid for this brick I can buy TWO drives and get him to do redundant archives so I won’t have to go through this again.
    I’m off to the store…..

  • Rick B

    Travis-
    Thank you for your post. My FreeAgent Pro 750GB failed as well. Because of your post, I hoped the assessment of a failed interface unit was correct and that the drive and data could be salvaged. I was able to extract the standard SATA drive by following your instructions. The E: drive now lives again in my second HDD slot in my aging Dell Optiplex 4700. Cost to repair was one SATA data cable – $7.99, Thanks!

  • SM

    Travis, many thanks for putting this up. Only if had noticed this one a little earlier. First, I really hate this external HDD. Copying of big chunks of data e.g. 5 – 10 GB had failed many times for me. And, one day this was not recognized as a drive at all. I guessed that the USB/Firewire interface might have conked out. So, began my “expedition” to open up the casing and get the drive out and hook it up with a SATA – USB adapter. The bottom comes off in no time. But, whoever designed the casing didn’t want it to taken off by any Tom, Dick or Harry :) . I caught a lucky break when I pried open the top clip and realize that there were clips :(. However, I didn’t realize that the bottom two could be opened the way you described. I was too mad after struggling with the darn casing and ending up with a bleeding finger. I was lucky to retain 3 clips. I lost one. Now that the drive is finally out, I need to get that SATA-USB thing from the local computer accessory shop and check whether my HDD is ok. In fact I took pics in my cell phone after taking the cover off and was thinking of posting it somewhere. That’s when I noticed your blog entry in my Google search result. The earlier ones were mostly You Tube videos showing a different model.

  • Vin

    Travis, thanks for helping all of us out! I managed to free my Seagate 750 and am attempting to use it as an internal HD. I have it connected correctly, but my computer will not turn on, but when I disconnect the power cable from the Seagate my computer starts just fine. I’m certain that power is not an issue because I just purchased a new power supply that provides plenty of power. Any ideas to what the problem may be or how to fix it? Thanks

  • Mark Edington

    Either I’m just lucky or all this discussion about “releasing” clips is potentially misleading. After spending about 30 seconds trying to get to the clips with a piece of stiff wire I decided this was definitely not going to get the job done for me. Instead, I simply took a pair of needle nose pliers and inserted the tips into the slots at the bottom and PULLED the handles apart to create a prying action. This popped the clip closest to the bottom out without breaking it. Then I did the same thing on the other side of the enclosure. This left only the two clips nearest the top still holding the sides together. I just kept pulling with my hands (very hard), and those two finally released. The whole procedure took about two minutes and nothing was broken. I popped in a new 1TB drive and put everything back together.

  • Angus

    What a bunch of ******* that they wouldn’t just use screws like every other electronics manufacturer. Based on the number of seagate drives I have had fail (internal, external, firmware and non-firmware related) they have lost me as a customer as I now have one of these drives that isn’t working and I’m not dismantling it to fix it.

  • troy

    I was wondering if you had any images (or knew of any online) that detail how exactly the power button assembly works on this drive. I have to repair one, and there are a few wires disconnected that I’m not sure about. Even if there was an image of the bottom circuit board …that’d be helpful. Here’s an image of my drive and what I’m looking for….

    Thanks anyone in advance :)

    https://picasaweb.google.com/103719960317662421959/GeneralPhotos?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-glLjd0NLhLQ#5666760973884783042

  • http://profile.yahoo.com/5HL2AQ5W2SN2I4CTWF3QSOFGBM Raj

    I tried for a good 30-45 minutes (possibly longer) to remove the casing clips with wire to no avail. I ended up just using a screw driver and peeling back the case, using brute strength to remove the top clips first and then rip off the bottom clips. My fingers hurt a lot as the casing is metal . However, despite all the knockings I gave the case, the drive maintained integrity and I was able to put it in another external enclosure with the drive fully intact and all files intact. Definitely, the failed drive was due to the enclosure and not the drive itself. I hate this particular Seagate FreeAgent Pro drive setup.

  • Alex Clark

    Hi Raj, I have a FreeAgent Pro that has just started making a clicking sound and won’t power up. I’m hoping it’s the enclosure and not the drive itself. What symptoms did your enclosure suffer and was the drive fine after you got it out? I am planning just to use brute force and break the case to get it open.

    Cheers

    Alex